Chiesa di San Giovenale

Chiesa di San Giovenale

I'm staying right next to the Duomo (or the Cathedral of Orvieto) which is the main focal point of all of Orvieto. I thought I would really like the Duomo but actually... I don't. The facade is dazzling, for sure, and the alternating black and white stonework is really a feat. If you follow the lines with your eyes you see they never falter, always lining up with every bend and crook, the mathematics involved must be staggering. But the inside is really a let down. It's vast and huge but dull. Plus they charge 5€ to get in. ⁣

Chiesa di San Giovenale (1004) on the other hand is really more my style, because I am after 𝘩𝘪𝘴𝘵𝘰𝘳𝘺 not 𝘳𝘦𝘭𝘪𝘨𝘪𝘰𝘯. San Giovenale is quite old, 62 years before William the Conqueror. There were changes in the 12th century and then some more in the 16th (to make it higher), but the majority of it looks true to that period. It's at the highest point on Orvieto overlooking the valley bellow. There is a little 'garden' adjacent to it that has a lovely persimmon tree. The church itself was totally empty when I was there so I had free reign to roam around. The frescoes are deliciously dilapidated.

Inside there is a breathtaking display of medieval frescoes that transport you back in time. Adorning the walls and ceilings, these ancient artworks depict religious narratives and scenes, intricately painted with vibrant colors and fine details. My favorite detail is of the wonderfully old lettering, which looks like it could be Greek.